“The Flavor is Up to the Cheese”: A New Producer Profile on Twenty Paces
A product of well managed sheep and four partners who share a commitment to making great cheese, Twenty Paces is a business that we can really get behind here at Fall Line Farms and Local Roots (FLF&LR). This delicious sheep’s milk cheese is produced in a way that prioritizes the health of the animals and the responsible use of the land they graze. Located in Albermarle County, nestled in the rolling hills between Charlottesville and Scottsville, Twenty Paces is one of three agribusinesses that operate on Bellair Farm, a 1200-acre farm established in the 1700s.
For our members who value artisanal foods, Twenty Paces is sure to become a favorite. There just aren’t many cheesemakers in the country who focus mainly on sheep’s milk cheese—only about fifty in the whole United States. That already makes Twenty Paces unusual. But it’s the rest of their story that makes Twenty Paces such a good fit for Fall Line Farms and Local Roots. We think our members will fall in love not only with the taste of this absolutely delicious local, artisanal farmstead cheese, but also with the love, thought, and care with which it is produced.
“We make farmstead cheese,” explains Kyle Kilduff, who oversees the cheesemaking part of the business with his colleague Bridge Cox. “Farmstead cheese is produced on a farm and made solely from milk that’s produced on that particular farm. It’s a European artisanal model. It compares roughly with estate wines, made on a particular estate with grapes that were grown on location.”
Great farmstead cheese requires deep attention to the farmstead itself, and that element of the business is handled by Tom Pyne, who, with his wife Melanie, make up the other half of the Twenty Paces partnership. Tom’s background is in grassland agronomy and forage-livestock systems. He designed and oversees the Management Intensive Grazing model followed by the partners. This system ensures the good health and milk production of their sheep, while also contributing to the taste and flavor development of Twenty Paces cheese. As the pastures change throughout the growing season, the changing flora influences various components the milk produced by the grazing ewes (notably fat and protein). This, in turn, results in nuanced textural and flavor changes in the cheese.
“Management Intensive Grazing, or MIG as it’s called in the livestock world, is a pasture-based system that’s way more specific than the broader practice of simple rotational grazing,” explains Kyle. “Rotational grazing, done the normal way, can sometimes mean that one part of the animal’s pasture gets pretty beaten up and bare. At Twenty Paces, we pay attention to what’s growing in the area during different times of the year. Even in one field, there are differences. For example, one area of an individual pasture might have more growth and different plants in it because it gets more sun.”
“Our animals are moved twice a day, after each milking.” Kyle explains. “We used netted fences that are easy to move around. We do that for pasture health, to keep the sheep from grazing down to the dirt. That helps with internal parasites [a common issue with sheep production in Virginia], because they don’t stay in one place long enough to pick them up from the ground. Also, new forage entices them to graze more. They sort of compete with one another to get the new food, so you get more milk. It’s a good system for the animals and for us. If we used a more traditional rotation method, we’d have to feed more grain and hay in the [milking] parlor.”
According to Kyle, focusing on the forage means that, for the most part, grain is offered only in the parlor during milking: “For us, it’s all about the health of the sheep. Animals in great shape give great milk. We supplement with some grain while they’re milking so that they’re healthy and get a little extra nutrition beyond what they gain from the forage. Because we milk twice a day, the small amount of grain they enjoy gives us insurance that they have top-notch nutrition.”
Twenty Paces will be selling three types of cheeses on our pages. The first is a feta, which they have only been making for about a year. Their feta is dense, crumbly, salty, and acidic. They’ll also be selling an aged pecorino-style cheese that they call Hardware. This is a raw sheep cheese made in the style of pecorino and aged 12 months. It can be enjoyed by itself of shaved in salads or pastas. The hardware and feta will be available year-round.
Their delicious and delicately textured ricotta, a seasonal cheese, was previously available only to restaurants and chefs through wholesale. Sarah Adduci, cheesemonger at RVA’s Belmont Butchery, says that she considers Twenty Paces ricotta a “signifier of spring,” with its delicate texture and flavor and its ability to blend with both sweet and savory garden-fresh elements.
Because of the COVID-19 pandemic, Twenty Paces will now be offering this lovely cheese through sellers like Fall Line Farms and Local Roots and other local outlets. What a treat for us!
“We had always meant to offer it for retail sale eventually,” says Kyle, “but the pandemic has changed our plans. Now we hope that local folks will enjoy adding it to their market shares. It’s delicate and it can’t be shipped, unlike the aged cheeses.”
Twenty Paces ricotta will be available only from April through October, as it can be produced only while the sheep are lactating. Unlike cows, which lactate for 12-14 months and goats, which lactate for 9 months, sheep only provide milk for six months. That’s one of the challenges in focusing exclusively on sheep’s cheese.
“It’s a fast and furious cheese-making season,” laughs Kyle. “Sheep’s milk is almost double in fat and protein compared to goats and cows. It allows lambs to put on their growth faster. All of this is why we focus on aged raw milk cheese and not just fresh. If we made only fresh, we’d only have a 6 or 7 month window for production and sales. Making aged cheeses allows us to go all year. We try to lamb and begin milking in mid-to-end march because we know we can put the animals on pasture then. Then we finish up milking in September. We can sell the aged cheese when the fresh isn’t available.”
Twenty Paces works hard to be a good neighbor to other local food businesses. “We have a unique situation,” explains Kyle Kilduff. “We leased land from Bellair Farm, which is a private property, and built on that leased land to create the rest of our operation. We formed our LLC in 2013 and began with both sheep and goats. In 2015, we built the creamery and produced our first aged cheese. We’re separate from the Bellair CSA, but we work closely with them and they sell our cheeses. It’s a good relationship.”
They have another close relationship with Caromont Farm, which just joined FLF&LR recently. Bridge and Kyle began making cheese professionally right down the road at Caromont, and they maintain a cordial and cooperative relationship with Gail Hobbs Page. In fact, it was Gail who suggested that they contact FLF&LR to consider selling through our pages. They will be coordinating to deliver products of each farm to our market each Thursday, further showing that they fit right in to the collaborative community that we value here at FLF&LR.
So order your Twenty Paces cheese and get ready for a treat. There’s a lot of imagination, good faith, and great practice that leads to delectable, noteworthy sheep’s milk cheese!
Good Energy! A New Producer Profile on M Henry Design
Catherine Fleischman, owner of M Henry Design, is pretty much Cumberland County’s version of the energizer bunny. She takes a run most days, is active in a number of community organizations in her native county. She serves as President of the Board of The Center for Rural Culture (CRC). In fact, on Thursdays Catherine has recently pitched in and become part of the intrepid crew of volunteers handling deliveries for Fall Line Farms and Local Roots (FLF&LR), one of the CRC’s major programs. Catherine is an avid horsewoman and once served as first whip for the Hounds of Deep Run Hunt Club. She and her husband Luke also run a vacation rental business and a farm together. And as if that isn’t enough, she also runs a floral design business: M Henry Design.
Fortunately for the members of FLF&LR, M Henry Design now sells their beautiful fresh bouquets through this non-profit online market. Right now, there are regular- and large-size bouquets of fresh flowers and greenery available for sale. And members who want to honor a frontline medical professional in the Richmond area can order a bouquet and have it delivered by the M Henry Design staff!
Catherine runs her business with the same civic focus that’s evident in her personal life. For the last two months, M Henry Design has shown up every other Friday at the Cumberland Community Cares food bank with arrangements to go home with the folks who come there for food.
“Everybody loves flowers!” Catherine declares. “They’re a great way to brighten someone’s day. Flowers are what we can share, and we enjoy sharing with our neighbors.” Once the COVID-19 pandemic hit, M Henry stepped up their game and they now deliver every Friday. “On Friday, volunteers and people picking up groceries are brightened and excited by this. It’s the least we can do,” she says.
Catherine’s mother, Carolyn Stonnell Baber, introduced her to the art of floral arrangement early on: “Mom was a passionate entertainer and a committed garden clubber. Flowers were everywhere when I was kid, and there were Christmas decorations every winter.” With a laugh, she adds, “We were foraging before it was cool!”
Catherine Fleischman got her first taste of being a florist as a junior in college. She worked for The Tropical Treehouse on Cary Street. She stayed with them several years, eventually becoming the manager of their store in the West End. In 1989, she left floral arranging to purchase and run Richmond Saddlery.
Ten years ago, Catherine met Mary Henry—the founder of M Henry Design. Mary had moved to Cumberland from Baltimore and the two became neighbors, then friends, and eventually colleagues. Catherine began helping Mary with the business part time, while still teaching full time at Cumberland High School. When Mary was ready to step back, Catherine stepped up and purchased the company. The two friends still work together, making beautiful arrangements for weddings, parties, and a number of special events.
“We use a lot of local flowers,” Catherine explains. “We order from local growers. And we’re working to grow more of our own, too. That’s our big thing. We love arranging flowers, but we also love gardening. We’re not afraid to get dirty!”
FLF&LR members can order bouquets to be delivered with their other items on Thursday, but they can also order flowers to be sent to those who are working on the front lines of the pandemic. M Henry Design will deliver them to medical facilities around the Richmond area. Asked about offering FLF&LR members the opportunity to send arrangements to medical folks, Catherine says, “This is the evolution of our business, changing to fit needs. We have been a wedding and event florist, but COVID-19 really changed things for that industry. We’re having to reinvent in order to be essential. To me, locally sourced flowers are a way to be essential.”
According to Catherine, flowers are especially important now because “they make people feel good, and this is a time when our society is waiting and seeing. It’s hard. And these medical workers are absolutely scrambling and putting themselves in harm’s way for others. This is one way that we can give back and let them know we’re grateful.”
Civic-minded is one keyword when it comes to the philosophy behind M Henry Design. Another one is “sustainable.” One of the first solar installations in Cumberland County was on the farm where Catherine lives with her husband, Luke. Now, she’s made a second investment in green energy by installing solar panels on her business.
“Choosing to go solar at the shop is my way of combining all of my passions and strength and energy into what I want to do for the next 10 years,” says Catherine. “Being green is important to me as a master naturalist, teacher, renovator, wife, community member, artist, gardener, and citizen. I feel fortunate to be able to make this come together by growing flowers and putting them in vases and bringing them into people’s lives. We’ve been generating on our farm since 2006, and that decision came from being aware of the environment and the impact humanity has. For me, being in the golden years of my employment, I am just interested in doing what I really feel needs to be done. Solar is a no-brainer for me. Our planet needs it; our economy needs it; our flowers need it.”
Catherine runs her business in a way that meets her overall mission in life—making her community better. As the President of the Board of the CRC, It’s a point of pride for her that the organization contributes to maintaining and strengthening the rural economy in places like Cumberland County: “Independent small farmers who feed their communities are the neighbors that I want to have,” she says. “I want to do everything I can to make sure that our economy—which is actually sustainable—is nurturing to nature. That’s the economy we need. The COVID situation is proving that. We are realizing that local farmers can offer a superior product in taste, freshness, and artisanship. Not just good food, but valuable food.”
Each bouquet of flowers from M Henry Designs has power behind it. Yes—solar power. But also the power of ensuring that local farms and small businesses are here to feed us—both body and soul. As Catherine says herself, “It’s not that we need to consume a lot—it’s that we need to consume purposefully and meaningfully.”
You can feel very good about a bouquet from M Henry Design, and not just because it’s beautiful.
To learn more about M Henry Design, visit their website at www.mhenrydesign.com and follow them on social media: @mhenrydesign.
New Producer Profile: Caromont Farm Goat Cheese
Since 2007, Gail Hobbs Page has been making goat cheese at Caromont Farm in Esmont, Virginia, just outside of Charlottesville. This cheese makes people sit up and take notice! We’re overjoyed to add this artisan, small batch cheese an option at FLF&LR. When we added it to our producer list last week for its “soft opening,” it was clear that Caromont Farm already had a following among our members. In fact, several folks sent messages thanking us for adding it to our list.
“We’re small,” says Gail, “We have a 5-person staff. But our cheese does have a national profile. Until COVID-19 hit, we’d done well selling through distributors in the region: Richmond, Charlottesville, D.C., Williamsburg. The pandemic has changed how we do things, though. We’re having to reconfigure, like a lot of other small businesses. My husband was the restaurant manager at Hamilton’s [on the downtown mall in Charlottesville], and I used to be the chef there a long time ago, before I started doing this. Obviously, he’s not working there now, and we’re not selling cheese to restaurants. That’s why we’re looking for opportunities through organizations like Fall Line Farms and Local Roots. We like to sell as much as we can locally, so this fits our business model well.”
If this week’s sales were any indication, Caromont Cheese is a good fit for us, too. Lots of it went home with our members—and sales are brisk again this weekend. This cheese is everything we hope to offer to you—delicious, local, and lovingly handmade in small batches by an artisan who loves her craft. And her goats!
“We have 100 goats in our herd,” says Gail. “There are Alpines, Lamanchas, and Saanens on our farm. People love the goats, and they bring visitors here, too. We had already sold a lot of tickets for agritourism events for this summer when this [pandemic] hit. We’re just waiting to see what we’re going to be able to do about letting people visit the farm.”
Isabella “Izzy” Zechini, one of the staff members at Caromont, confirms that the goats—especially when they’re little—hold a strong attraction for visitors. “The snuggle sessions with the baby goats are really popular,” she says. “But people have been very understanding. Lots of people who purchased tickets to the farm have donated them back to the farm. We’re going to plan events for the fall to thank the folks who are sticking with us.”
Sadly, we can’t bring you a baby goat to snuggle. But we can bring you this award-winning local cheese that’s surrounded by a national buzz. In case you haven’t already perused the list, here’s the lowdown. Caromont offers 7 different options. Five of them are in the Chèvre category: mild and creamy Farmstead Chèvre with no added flavorings; an Herbes de Provence Chèvre log, rolled in herbs and perfect for cheese plates; Piquillo Pepper Chèvre, featuring sweet piquillo peppers; and Truffle Chèvre, with white Italian truffle. All of them are delectable! There’s also the Mt. Alto--a traditional Greek-style feta that’s briny and creamy, but perfect for crumbling. Last but not least, there are two types of queso de campo, or country-style cheese that’s semi-hard and a bit less salty than the feta. You can order your queso de campo plain or with olive oil and chili. You can’t go wrong either way. Seriously.
It may sound cheesy, but we’re thrilled to have Caromont Farm on FLF&LR. From the looks of it, our members share our enthusiasm!
New Producer Profile: Clean Conscience Chocolate
“Our chocolate is not candy,” explains Steve Kennedy, “It’s real food.” Not many chocolatiers can make that claim, but Steve and his wife Mary have a valid argument.
Clean Conscience Chocolate is a small artisan chocolate company in Gordonsville, Virginia, not far from Charlottesville. Every piece is made by hand, and the term “small-batch” really fits their process. Mary has been a professional chocolatier for more than fourteen years. The company is nearly 2 ½ years old and was created when she and Steve decided to focus on making healthy snacks that aligned with their lifestyle.
They focused their first year on developing and perfecting their recipes and methods to make their chocolate snacks absolutely the best they could offer. They also worked to make sure that their products reflected their personal commitment to being both clean and green. (Yes--all of their packaging, including their labels, is actually fully compostable!)
When the pandemic hit and social distancing drove people into their homes to stay safe, sales began to drop precipitously. Because most of their business was wholesale they’ve had to rethink their marketing and distribution plan. Like all small businesses in the local food economy, they had to pivot. That’s why their chocolate made it to our pages more quickly than anticipated.
Steve and Mary are scrupulous about their craft. They use only 100% natural ingredients. The chocolates are vegan, non-GMO, paleo-friendly, dairy/gluten/soy-free, and don’t contain any refined sugar or preservatives. “It’s clean eating,” says Steve, “and we’re proud of that. In fact, that’s why we chose our name. You can really feel great about enjoying our chocolates. It’s really good for you, and it’s filling. In fact, it’s my lunch almost every day!”
All of the chocolate is single-origin and comes from a grower in Ecuador. “It comes from the only certified biodynamic chocolate source in the world,” says Steve, “so it’s a step above organic and fair trade in that they have only sustainable, socially responsible, and environmentally friendly practices in their entire supply chain. The chocolate is actually raw so it has more nutrients than traditional chocolate We don’t add any fillers, so it’s also good for people who have food sensitivities. We use raw organic cane sugar and maple syrup as a sweetener for the fillings, and so little of it that some diabetics consider us diabetic friendly.”
But it’s the delicate floral flavor of the chocolate, which is naturally dried by the sun rather than roasted, that makes their products distinctive.
Their peppermint patties were an early bestseller and are particularly popular with women, followed by their peanut butter cups, almond butter cups, and coconut joys. According to Steve, each of their creations has a following, and all are now running neck-and-neck in popularity. They even offer a sipping chocolate, perfect for the few nippy days left in spring.
This is chocolate that has been carefully researched, then with great care and love, incorporated into the recipes. It’s also very thoughtfully presented.
“We were also really intentional about the packaging,” Steve notes, “as we wanted to make sure that we stayed completely in line with our goal of creating a guilt-free food. We go a bit against the grain on presentation. You won’t see fancy, eye-catching packaging. Instead, we keep it simple and--literally--transparent. And our packaging is compostable, too.”
Stay safe, stay well, and eat your chocolate. With a clean conscience, of course!
You can follow Clean Conscience Chocolate on Facebook: @cleanconsciencechocolate. They're also on Etsy.
New Producer Profile: Terra di Sienna
By Katie Hoffman, Marketing and Promotions Director
Less than an hour outside of Richmond, in the rolling Piedmont hills of rural Amelia County, Filippo Gambassi is following a generations-old tradition begun by his family in Tuscany. He and his wife, Irene Chiti, are working to produce traditional Italian salumi, using artisanal methods passed down to Filippo by family. Just one taste of their cured meats will hook you. They are delicious! And, with their focus on local ingredients and artisanal methods, they fit right into the producer lineup at Fall Line Farms & Local Roots.
If you Google Terra di Siena, you’ll learn that Filippo’s family still runs the “mother company” in Italy, creating salumi by hand with local Tuscan ingredients. But the products on our pages, while they use the same artisanal methods and closely follow the family’s tried-and-true recipes, are made with locally-raised Virginia pork. According to Irene, she and Filippo love the challenge of creating a real Italian artisanal process right here in Virginia, just like the process we have in Tuscany.
In fact, Central Virginia has marked similarities to Tuscany, where Filippo’s family began this business six generations ago. “Filippo learned how to do this as a child,” says Irene. “He was taught by his family. We use carefully selected ingredients, like sea salt from Sicily and fresh garlic. Our herbs and spices are organic. We buy our pepper whole and grind it by hand. The spices, too. Everything we do is with our hands. There’s no industrial machine!”
Filippo and Irene actually Terra di Siena 8 years ago in Staunton, Virginia. They were using a small abattoir in Amelia to process their pigs, and renting a curing chamber in the facility to finish their products. Two years ago, the owners of the abattoir decided to sell, and Terra di Siena decided to purchase it and move their operations from Staunton to Amelia.
Of course, the facility complies with all USDA regulations in order to keep the products safe for us to eat—but this still allows for the slow, natural aging and curing of the meat that creates Terra di Siena’s distinctive flavor profile.
“You can’t hurry the process,” explains Irene. “That’s an important part of the taste!”
We’re proud to offer such a delicious and storied line of products through our non-profit online farmers market, Fall Line Farms & Local Roots.
Bacon, Caramelized Onion and Toasted Pecan Salad
By guest blogger Susan Gleeson of The Sown Life Wellness
This is one of my favorite salads to make! It is an entire meal unto itself and if you want more protein you can add grilled chicken, salmon or shrimp! It’s the perfect way to highlight lots of farm-fresh food. Load it up, as all these flavors are heartwarming and delicious! This salad serves two as a main meal or four as a side dish. Enjoy and have fun with it!!!
Editor's Note: Almost everything that it takes to make this salad can be found on the buying pages of Fall Line Farms and Local Roots!Thank you for your support!
• 4 cups salad greens of your choice--I love arugula so that is my go-to! (Spinach or baby kale would be great as well)
• 1 medium red onion sliced
• 2 tsp. ghee
• ¼ tsp. herbes de Provence
• 6 slices of bacon
• ½ cup pecan pieces
• 1 medium-sized sweet potato
• 2 TBS. olive oil
• ¼ tsp. garlic powder
• Salt & pepper
• 15 whole fresh sage leaves
• 1 cup avocado oil (optional—but needed if not using bacon drippings)
• ¼ cup blue cheese, crumbled (optional)
White balsamic vinegar
Good quality olive oil
Salt and pepper
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. For Sweet Potato Croutons: Cut sweet potato in ¼ inch cubes. Toss in a medium bowl with olive oil, garlic powder, salt, and pepper. Layer in one layer on the cookie sheet. (I use Parchment paper on my cookie sheet) Roast for 30 minutes or until brown and slightly crispy.
3. For Bacon: In a large skillet over med. low heat, crisp up the bacon. Drain on a paper towel and then crumble. If using pastured pork bacon, leave the fat in the pan for later use.
4. For Caramelized Onions: In a medium skillet over med. low heat, melt ghee. Add sliced onion and caramelize until soft and golden brown, adding herbes de Provence when they are nearly finished. Set aside and save skillet for later use.
5. For Toasted Pecans: In the medium skillet that you used for the onions, add just a scant amount of ghee and toast pecans. (I like using this skillet because the sweet onion flavor transfers to the pecans.)
6. For Fried Sage: Heat up the skillet you used for the bacon until the bacon drippings are hot. Place a sage leaf in the hot drippings to test the heat of the oil. If it sizzles, then add the other sage leaves. Fry front for about a minute and then flip over to the back side. Remove and drain on paper towels. (If not using bacon drippings, then you can use avocado oil. Make sure you have about ½ inch of oil in the skillet.)
7. Assembling the Salad: Layer the greens on the bottom, followed by the bacon, then the caramelized onions, blue cheese, and pecans. Save the croutons and sage leaves for after you dress the salad.
8. Dressing: This dressing is as simple as it gets. I call it my 3-4 drizzle. I take the bottle of white balsamic and drizzle over the entire salad to the count of 3. Then I take the olive oil and drizzle it over the entire salad to the count of 4. Salt and Pepper to taste and then toss!!! So easy!!!
9. To Eat It: After tossing the salad, top it off with sweet potato croutons and fried sage leaves. Serve!!!
We are grateful for the advocacy of members like Susan Gleeson! To learn more about her practice, The Sown Life Wellness, and to see her beautiful photos and recipes, follow her on Instagram and Facebook (@thesownlife). You can all visit her website at www.thesownlife.com.
This post is a follow-up to Susan’s guest post last week, in which she talks about the connection between eating seasonally and locally and good health. GO to our Center for Rural Culture blog page to read more about the philosophy behind The Sown Life--www.centerforruralculture.org.
You Reap What You Sow: Susan Gleeson, Nutrition, and The Sown Life
I’m Susan Gleeson, a Nutritional Counselor and Master Herbalist in Richmond, Virginia. My practice, The Sown Life Wellness, is located in Bon Air and my main focus is nutritional counseling and hormone balance.
One principle that drives my practice is that the quality of food we eat is primary to long lasting health and vitality. Many who come to see me struggle with symptoms of hormone imbalance, autoimmune disorders, digestive issues and disordered eating. A large part of our work together is learning how to bring some healing to clients' bodies with high quality, healthy, local food! Most don’t realize that this is even possible, and I live for those light bulb moments when a client will look at me and say: “Wow, I feel so much better!” The change is especially stark for the people who switch to eating the majority of their food from local and natural/organic farms. The difference in their health is profound. Not only are they finally consuming nutrient dense foods, but they are also purchasing the highest quality they can.
That's where my passion for Fall Line Farms comes into play. I love that I can recommend an online farmer’s market that not only provides amazingly fresh and local food but also delivers it all to one location for pick up. I firmly believe in the value of supporting local farmers and growers. What they do and what they give to us in this age of factory farmed meat and over sprayed crops is a precious and valuable gift. I have been so encouraged in the past decade as I have seen many small, sustainable farmers get more and more visibility and increased business in Virginia. In my little corner of the world, Sown Life Wellness, people are waking up to their need for quality food. They are finding out what it feels to be well and whole, and in so many ways we have local farmers to thank for that.
FLF&LR is grateful for the advocacy of members like Susan Gleeson! To learn more about her practice, The Sown Life Wellness, and to see her beautiful photos and recipes, follow her on Instagram and Facebook (@thesownlife). You can also visit her website at www.thesownlife.com. Next week, we'll feature one of her delicious and healthy recipes. Stay tuned!
New Producer Profile: Richlands Dairy
When you pull up the Richlands Dairy and Creamery web page, the first things you see are a picture of their beautiful Holstein cows and a tag line underneath that says, “Honest to Goodness Dairy.” If you meet any of the Joneses or have an occasion to visit this beautiful family farm, you’ll see just what they mean by that phrase. Their dedication to keeping happy cows and being good stewards of the land is clear. So is their dedication to offering delicious, high-quality milk and cream, with no misleading labels or added ingredients. Just straight-up good milk that you can trust.
We’re excited to be offering milk and cream from Richlands Dairy and Creamery on Fall Line Farms and Local Rootsts! Our members will be able to choose from whole milk, 2% milk, chocolate milk, half-and-half and heavy cream. And the milk is available in a variety of convenient sizes. Of course, like most of the other items you’ll find on our pages, it comes from right here in Central Virginia.
Located at 460 Cox Road in Blackstone, Virginia, Richlands Creamery and Dairy sits on 500-plus acres that have been farmed continuously since the 1750s by the same family. Currently, four generations of Joneses work on the farm. They maintain a happy herd of over 500 cows, which until recently included faithful old Quasi—the oldest member of the herd and a retiree from milking. She was distictive from the others, as she wore her very own cowbell. Sadly, Quasi passed away earlier this year, but her legacy lives on in story and the photos you'll see on the Richlands Creamery walls.
In 2018, the family broke ground on the new Richlands Creamery building, which houses the ice cream counter, the Creamery Kitchen (their new family restaurant), and the farm store. This space is designed to bring people together and create community. Whether they’re savoring an ice cream cone, picking up a gallon of milk from the farm store, or sitting down to a sandwich or soup in the Creamery Kitchen guests will feel mighty welcome at Richlands. And there are also windows that let guests look right into the dairy where the milk is bottled and the ice cream is made. One hallmark of this place is certainly hospitality. Another is the family’s sincere desire to inspire and educate visitors, introducing them to the principles of agriculture done right.
Coley Jones Drinkwater, Sales and Marketing Director for Richlands Creamery and Dairy, grew up on the farm. “I’m one of four family members who work here on the farm,” says Coley. Her father, Hugh, and her brother, TR, are agronomists, handling the planting and harvesting that keeps the cows fed with a healthy diet of food raised right there on the land. Her sister-in law Brittany is the farm manager, putting her Masters degree in Dairy Science and Microbiology to the service of the operation. “We all wear a lot of hats,” explains Coley. “It’s a lot of work, but worth it. We want to promote and support agriculture in all of its aspects. We want to be a trusted voice for agriculture as a whole. Everything we do aims for that goal.”
After graduating college, Coley traveled around the world for nearly a year, working a number of jobs, visiting far-flung places, and all the while reinforcing her belief that, as she points out, “you can really get to know people by their food—and agriculture is at the heart of that.” She came home to the farm and went into the family business because, as she sees it, “dairy is my family heritage. It just gets in your bones! I do it for the love of it—the cows, the outdoors, the feeling of being a close-knit family. If we sold the dairy, the family wouldn’t live and work together. That’s the driving force behind all of this!”
“Our number one goal in creating the Creamery,” Coley explains, “was to create a sustainable business. We had to change the current business model of a dairy. We need to make money by the end of three years—as of the end of January, we’ll have been open for 7 months. We want to increase our quality of life and to do the same for others in our community.”
“It was important to us to make a place where people could gather and connect,” she says. “I love seeing people talking and enjoying a meal or an ice cream cone. It’s great to see the kids playing. We intentionally don’t offer free WiFi here, because we put a premium on family time and community. We want people to put down the cell phones. We want them to gather, pay attention to each other, and have real conversations.”
There’s a lot to enjoy at Richlands, so be sure to plan a visit. The ice cream is delicious, and their recipe steps back from the sugar to let the flavor shine through. (This author can personally attest to the deliciousness of the Salty Monkey and the Triple Chocolate Chunk!) The farm store stocks local fare, along with Richlands dairy products And the Creamery Kitchen serves sandwiches and hearty comfort food for lunch Tuesday through Saturday and stays open for dinner on Friday and Saturday. All year long, Richlands offers farm tours, special dinners, and seasonal celebrations like a pumpkin patch and corn maze in the fall, a dairy month celebration in June, homeschool days, and Fall Festival weekends in October.
We’re proud to add Richlands Dairy and Creamery to our producer lineup. Like us, they’re dedicated to preserving Central Virginia’s farmland and rural culture. They offer what’s fresh, local, and thoughtfully produced. And last—but certainly not least—they offer dairy products that just taste really great!
For more information on Richlands Dairy or to see what’s coming up next on the farm, check their website (www.richlandscreamery.com) or follow them on Facebook ( @richlands.dairyfarm ). The Kitchen Table has its own Facebook page: @richlandskitchentable. You can call them at 434-233-3014.
Simple Enough: A Recipe for Savory Whipped Squash
By Jenny Tremblay West
The nights slip in too quickly, and the chill in my old home has me in the kitchen with any excuse to turn on that stove. In the winter time we want hearty good food that doesn't require too much fuss but returns big flavor and warmth. My go-to is often squash, which to me is simple, but to a lot of my students is a task larger than they bargained for.
I teach folks how to cook, and if they learn nothing more than how to properly peel and chop something, I feel like they are in a better place than when they come to me. Prepping veggies and ingredients is the step that causes struggle, and having the proper tools helps enormously. A very sharp knife can do wonders for the home cook and is a must for cutting hard vegetables such as squash. A peeler that has a good blade—or even better, a serrated blade—will knock out the peeling part. If you hate peeling, you can always roast the squash.
This recipe for Savory Whipped Squash comes together very quickly after the squash is prepared. The last tool that this recipe uses is an immersion blender. If you don’t have one, you can substitute a food processor or blender, or you can simply mash the squash by hand for a more textured dish. The immersion blender requires the least amount of washing, so it’s my personal favorite. The notes of herbs and cream yield silky and complex results. This whipped squash is the perfect comfort food for a chilly night’s dinner.
NOTES ON COOKING SQUASH:
If you choose butternut or another smooth-skinned vegetable, peeling is easy. If your squash is bumpy or has nooks, like an acorn squash, you may want to consider roasting and not peeling first. There are two easy ways to cook squash. Steaming or roasting. For this recipe we steamed in the instant pot.
Cut the bottom and top off with a very sharp knife. Use a good vegetable peeler to remove all of the exterior skin. Carefully cut the vegetables in half and scoop out any seeds in the cavity. Set the seeds aside if you choose to roast them. Cut the squash into large 2-inch pieces. Shape is not important, but you don’t want huge pieces.
Steam: Use your stovetop steamer, microwave steamer, or instant pot. Times will vary. You can check stovetop or microwave after 8 minutes or so by inserting a sharp knife. If it is easy to insert with no force, then the squash is done. Cooking it in the instant pot requires a steaming rack or basket. Set it for 4 minutes on high pressure, 5 minute natural release.
Roasting: You can leave the skin on (remove the seeds) for roasting, or peel and cut as in the steaming method. On a roasting pan, drizzle a little vegetable oil and place the squash cut side down. Roast in a 400 °F oven for 40-60 minutes, depending on the size. Check for doneness by inserting a knife. If it goes in with no force and if it is easy to remove, then your squash is done. Remove it from the oven and scoop out the interior flesh for use.
SAVORY WHIPPED SQUASH
4 cups roasted or steamed winter Squash (butternut, acorn, pumpkin or other winter variety) See cooking note
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 shallots, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan
¼ cup heavy cream, half and half or whole mil
Chopped flat leaf parsley for garnish, optional
Coarse salt and ground pepper
In a large nonstick skillet, melt butter over medium. Add shallots and garlic and cook until softened and beginning to caramelize, about 8-12 minutes. Stir in thyme and rosemary and cook until fragrant, 1 minute. Add squash and toss to combine. Cook until warmed through. Stir in parsley and parmesan and season with salt and pepper. Add heavy cream. Pulse with an immersion blender until light and fluffy. Garnish with parsley or other chopped herbs if desired.
Squash pancakes: for every 2 cups of leftovers add one egg and about ¼ cup of all purpose flour. Mix well and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Heat a nonstick skillet over medium heat and add a pat of butter to the hot pan. Scoop about ¼ cup of batter at a time and press down lightly, frying for about 3-4 minutes or until crispy and browned slighly on that side. Flip and proceed with frying about 3 minutes more. Repeat until all done. Serve with sour cream.
Flatbreads: Toast a flatbread in a 425 °F oven for about 8 minutes. Spread leftover squash mixture on top and pop back into the oven for another 8 minutes or until warmed through. Top with a lightly dressed salad of arugula and spinach. To make the dressing, combine lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and chili flakes.
About Jenny: Jenny Tremblay grew up in the hospitality industry, learning from an early age the ins and outs of her family's mountain resort in Banff, Canada. This uncommon upbringing fueled a lifelong love of connecting with people, travel, and food. She attended culinary school at Dubrulle International Culinary Arts in Vancouver and jumped into a career that has taken many forms. She has found a calling in teaching others, utilizing her skills and knowledge she has learned over a lifetime. Trained as a pastry chef, baking is one of her favorite things to share with clients and friends. Her love of gardening and fresh produce plays a heavy hand in her cooking style.
Jenny's business, Kitchen Coach, teaches in-depth cooking lessons either privately or in small groups. She can also be found teaching public classes at Mise en Place and writing recipes for local publications. Jenny lives in Church hill, just east of downtown Richmond, Virginia with her husband and two boys.
Thanks to You, 2019 Was Terrific! A Letter from Our President.
A YEAR OF ACCOMPLISHMENTS
2019 has been a year of growth and inspiration for our mission, and we are grateful for the support that you have provided. We have strengthened our connections with young people in our rural areas, grown the market share of our non-profit online farmers market, and continued to offer programs that educate the public about the importance of maintaining our rural culture and heritage. Along the way, we also enjoyed two sold-out fundraising events that were as enjoyable as they were productive. It was a good year, and we look forward to building on those successes in 2020.
WORKING WITH LOCAL YOUTH
This was a year of reconnection and expansion in working with rural students in Central Virginia. We continued our work with the Hand-to-Hand Program at Byrd Elementary School in Goochland. Every year, we contribute to this very worthy program. This year, with the help of Dave Booth, Culinary Arts teacher at Goochland High School, we expanded our programming to include the Culinary Arts classes at his school. The Center for Rural Culture provided tomatoes for their canning class through the Pounds of Plenty program, a feature of Fall Line Farms and Local Roots, our non-profit online farmers market. Pounds of Plenty allows members to give locally raised eggs and produce to food pantries near them. Our Marketing Director, Katie Hoffman, also visited Dave’s classes on behalf of the CRC and spent a day teaching the students to ferment sauerkraut and talking with them about other traditional rural foods. We’re excited that Dave has agreed to come on board as our Education Committee Chair, and we look forward to seeing what his leadership will bring in 2020.
FALL LINE FARMS AND LOCAL ROOTS:OUR NON-PROFIT ONLINE FARMERS MARKET
Fall Line Farms and Local Roots has done very well this year. True to our mission, we are supporting small farms in Central Virginia by providing a sales outlet for them that gives each farmer a greater financial return. According to our producers, selling through Fall Line Farms and Local Roots is financially advantageous in a number of ways, including decreasing waste. This market has a direct impact on preserving Central Virginia’s rural landscape and culture by serving the small farms we all seek as neighbors. Having a dedicated Marketing and Promotions Director has also made a big difference in 2019. Sales for the market have been up over 20% so far this year. We have added several new producers and pick-up locations, and we have some exciting announcements coming in January, too! With your support, Fall Line Farms and Local Roots has engaged even more producers, customers, and farmers in the economic commerce that sustains the rural character of our neighborhoods. Thank you!
The homestead series continues to educate the public on issues and practices that open minds to conserving natural resources and community engagement. Nationally acclaimed writer Max Watman joined us at Rassawek during the annual Spring Jubilee to offer readings from his books on local food and talk with the crowd. He also gave a Homestead Series program on making your own tinctures, shrubs, bitters, and infusions. Other Homestead Series classes included woodlot management and beekeeping.
AN INVITATION TO JOIN US IN 2020
Our board welcomes your support of our non-profit organization. If open space, local markets, sustainable living, and the natural environment are important to you, then we invite you to join us in 2020. Our goals are to increase market membership, broaden our Homestead Series topics and expand our education programs to reach more youth. Whatever your skills and experience, we welcome them! Come serve on a committee, volunteer for Fall Line Farms and Local Roots, or help with one of our events and classes. Of course, your financial support is equally important.
We wish all of our past and present members, supporters, and volunteers a happy holiday season and a prosperous 2020. Your generosity has allowed us to have a positive impact here in central Virginia. We look forward to working with you in the coming year!
President of the Board
The Center for Rural Culture